McLeod Ganj

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The majority of time on our trip up north was spent in McLeod Ganj, a little town in the foothills of the Himalayas. It is the site of the Tibetan Government in Exile and the official residence of the 14th Dalai Lama. In 1949, after the Chinese government invaded Tibet, many refugees crossed the Himalayas and came to India. The Indian government set aside this land for them to settle. To this day, refugees continue to make the dangerous cross into India and Nepal to escape the oppressive presence in their homeland. The entire town is built along ridges overlooking dramatic valleys. In many directions we could see the great, snow-capped Himalayan mountains. The atmosphere was relaxing, the people were friendly, and the landscape was unbelievable.

This town was such a contrast to the previous cities we had visited. Although it was a holy center for the Tibetan Buddhist religion, the architecture and people were decidedly simple. The temple complex was a very basic structure. Emphasis was placed on practice and relationships rather than sculptural masterpieces.

There were many opportunities to interact with Tibetan culture and nature. There were meditation and yoga courses, cooking classes, and hiking trails; not to mention people who were always willing to share their incredible stories of how they crossed into India. One night we happened to arrive at the temple as the Buddhist monks were initiating an evening chant. They sat in rows facing each other, while a leader directed the monks through the session. Continuing the theme of simplicity, it was amazing how seemingly simple utterances could have such a profound impact on us.

We were very sad to leave McLeod Ganj, and this is definitely a place we hope to return to.

Amritsar

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One of our favorite places we visited on our trip up north was the Golden Temple in Amritsar. The Golden Temple is a major spiritual place for the Sikh religion but is open to everyone. The temple has been destroyed and rebuilt many times but now stands fully restored and beautiful. The two-story structure is built out of marble but the top dome — an inverted lotus flower — is supposedly gilded with 1,653 pounds of gold. Seemingly floating within a giant reflecting pool, the temple is both serene and spectacular.

The overall feeling of this place was peace. Visitors must wash their feet in small pools and cover their head before entering. We enjoyed walking barefoot on the cool marble, taking our time and feeling each step. The entire complex was exceptionally clean (a real rarity in this country), the pilgrims and visitors even volunteer to wash it every day. Buckets that are filled from the reflecting pool are distributed to everyone and splashed over the marble walkways. This may sound chaotic, but it was actually quite organized; it was amazing to witness.

Not only was the temple an oasis of cleanliness, but it was also quiet. It was the first time we were able to walk around without our senses being overwhelmed. Everyone was kind, and accommodating. They even have a kitchen that serves free meals to anyone, 24-hours a day, and an on-site hostel where anyone can stay for free.

We have to admit, the Sikhs almost won two converts after we got a taste of their "communion". They take unleavened bread to a whole new level; their communion is a warm ball of dough made from clarified butter, sugar and flour. We almost went back for seconds.

Indian Wedding

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One of our goals while living in India was to experience an Indian wedding. Last week we had our chance when we attended a traditional Hindu wedding. It was very colorful, full of rituals, and long (and we were only there for one out of the four days).

It was fascinating to observe the different traditions being carried out. There was a Hindu priest that officiated the entire event. Unlike American traditions, in India the entire family is central to the union, not just the bride and groom. Throughout the entire ceremony, both sets of parents and siblings participated in many of the rituals. Although we did not understand any of it, visually we were able to take it all in, and It was beautiful.

There was hardly anyone there to observe the rituals, but the crowd grew ten-fold for the reception and dinner that followed. The irony is that nothing significant happened at the reception. Indians do not take the "bride and groom mingles while guests enjoy the meal" approach that is popular in the US. Instead, during the reception all 200 guests sit in rows and watch while, one by one, people join the bride and groom on stage to wish them well and pose for a photograph. After everyone has had their turn, we all moved to the next quadrant where the food was being served. The food stations were right out of a miniature golf course. Including flashing lights, waterfalls, plastic animals, and lots of bright colors.

The entire day was filled with tradition, symbolism, excitement, color, mysticism, and beauty. This was definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Note: two red, upholstered thrones appear in many of the photographs. These were never used. I did notice at one point the videographer sit in one to get a better angle.